INTRODUCTION
The purpose of this
guide is to provide information to leaders, parents, and club goat feeders for
the development of successful club goat projects. 4-H club goat projects for
youngsters are growing in popularity every year, consequently, the competition
is becoming greater every year.
Since goats are
small, easy to work with, and demand a relatively small amount of space, many
4-Hers have discovered that goats are an excellent choice as a club project.
Goats provide a meaningful livestock experience in a relatively short time.
GENERAL
Once a 4-H member
has decided to have a club goat project, there are several questions that must
be answered before he/she begins. It is the responsibility of each exhibitor to
read the general rules and regulations, as well as special rules governing the
shows they will attend. This will tell you the number of goats you can enter,
weight limits, ownership dates, and entry deadlines.
The date of the
show is extremely important because they determine the age and size or weight
of the goats and at what time of year they should be purchased. Most shows
require that goats have their milk teeth at show time. Goats will usually hold
their milk teeth until they are 10 to 12 months of age. After this time, you
are taking a risk that a goat will lose his baby teeth thus making him
ineligible.
Under normal
conditions goats will gain approximately 2-2.5 pounds per week. There are
differences in frame size and not all goats can be fed to the same final
weight. Large frame goats may be correctly finished at 120 pounds, while small
farm goats may be correctly finished at 80 pounds. One must learn to look at
indicators of frame size and growth (length of head, neck, and cannon bone) and
determine at what weight a goat will be correctly finished. At the time of
purchase, if you know approximately what your goat weighs and how long it is
until show time, then you can calculate if a goat will have to be fed light,
moderate, or heavy to meet the weight limit requirements of the show that you
want to enter. Remember that size does not make a good goat. There are good
small goats and good big goats. Your management program is the key.
FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT
One of the major
advantages of a club goat project is that young people can feed goats without
having expensive facilities. A barn or shed where goats can retreat from cold,
wet conditions and a pen with outside exposure is all that is necessary. The
following outline will discuss the facilities and equipment needed for a club
goat project. It should be understood that a young person that has a couple of
goats for a local or county show would not necessarily need all of the
equipment listed below.
Barns
and/or Sheds
Goats need a
combination arrangement: access to a shed and an area where they can get
outside in the sunshine. The shed area should have at least 15 square feet of
space for each goat. The outside pen needs to be as big as possible to allow
the goat to exercise himself. The shed should be well drained so water does not
accumulate under the barn. Sheds or barns should open to the east or south.
Barn temperature is critical. Structures should be well ventilated, so goats
will remain cool and continue to grow during the summer months.
Pen
Fences
Fence height should
be at least 42 inches tall to keep goats from attempting to jump and should be
predator proof. If you are using net wire fences, 12-inch mesh should be used
rather than 6-inch mesh to keep goats from getting their heads hung. However,
the most desirable pens are constructed from galvanized livestock panels that
are 5 feet tall with 4-inch squares.
Feeders
Self feeders are
often used in the feeding of club goats. Self feeders should be blocked up at
least 6 inches off the ground. Hand feeding goats should be done in movable
troughs which hang on the fence at the appropriate height. Troughs should be
hung at the same height as the top of the shoulder of the goats being fed.
These movable troughs need to be taken down and cleaned regularly. Likewise,
hay and mineral feeders need to be raised off the ground. This will help to
reduce the spread of disease. It is also important to make sure that goats are
unable to stand in their feed trough as they will urinate of defecate on the
feed.
Water
Containers
Clean water is the
most important ingredient in feeding club goats. Water troughs should be small
so they can be drained and cleaned on a regular basis. Remember that water
troughs should be checked on a daily basis. Water troughs should be
located in the shade to keep water cool. However, in the hot summer months,
some goats tend to drink too much water and appear "full". Water
should never be totally removed for the goat, but rationing water prior to the
show will help remove the belly from the goat and increase ones chances in the
show ring. Remember, do not dehydrate your goat. The proper amount of fluids is
vital to the feel and condition of your goat.
Necessary
Equipment
The following list
of equipment is considered necessary for feeding and exhibiting club goats.
Optional Equipment
The following additional equipment is often
acquired by those families which feed several goats and exhibit goats at
several major shows:
SELECTION
The selection of a goat for a project is one
of the most important decisions made by a feeder. The type of goat you select
at the beginning of the project will have a major influence on the results at
the end of the project. However, one must remember that a winning goat is a combination
of good selection, good nutritional management, proper grooming, and
outstanding showmanship.
People differ in their ability to select
prospective animals. Some have a natural eye for selecting young animals, while
others never develop this ability. Do not hesitate to take advantage of a
person with these skills. It may be your county agent, FFA instructor, parents,
or another leader in the county. Also, many breeders are willing to assist you
in your selection program.
When selecting young goats one must be
conscious of age and fat thickness. Young goats that are bloomy and fat always
look good, while young goats that are thin do not look as good. Learn to look
past fat and recognize muscle so that you can pick those goats that are
genetically superior.
Anytime you purchase goats, it is important
to know a little about the producer you are buying from. Do not hesitate to ask
questions about their goat's bloodlines and the age of the goats in question.
When selecting goats there are five major
areas of emphasis that need to be considered. They are structural correctness,
muscle, volume and capacity, style and balance, and growth potential.
Structural Correctness
Structural correctness refers to the
skeletal system or bone structure of an animal. Goats should be up-headed, with
the neck extending out of the top of the shoulders. Goats should travel and
stand wide and straight on both their front and rear legs, and their legs
should be placed squarely under the body. They should have a strong level top,
and a long rump with a slight slope from their hooks to their pins. Goats
should be heavy boned and be strong on their pasterns. Open shouldered, weak
pasterned, steep rumped goats should be avoided.
Muscle
Generally, goats that walk and stand wide
are going to be heavier muscled. Goats should have a deep, heavily muscled leg
and rump, with the widest part of the leg being the stifle area, when viewed
from behind. They should have a broad, thick back and loin that is naturally
firm and hard handling. Goats should be wide through their chest floor, with
bold shoulders and a prominent forearm muscle. The chest and forearm of a goat
are the best indicators of muscling in thin goats.
Volume and Capacity
Volume and capacity refers to the
relationship of length of body with depth of body and width of body. Goats
should be long bodied, with adequate depth and spring of rib. Try to avoid
selecting goats that are short bodied, narrow based, and flat ribbed.
Style and Balance
Style and balance refers to the way all body
parts blend together, how the shoulder blends into the rib cage, the rib cage
to the loin, the loin to the rump, and how eye-appealing a goat is. When viewed
from the side, a goat should be smooth shouldered, level topped, trim middled,
and straight legged. A goat that is balanced, pretty, and holds his head up, is
the first one you notice when you walk in the pen.
Growth Potential
The ability of an animal to grow rapidly is
very important. Generally, the larger framed goats, as indicated by a long head,
neck, cannon-bone, and body, will grow faster, be larger, and more competitive
in the show ring.
NUTRITION
A good feeding program is one which uses all
of the current information on nutritional requirements, yet allows the feeder
to make judgments on when changes should be made as to the amounts to feed.
Since most goats do not deposit external fat as quickly as other species of
livestock, a self-feeding program can be used effectively. However, there are
some goats that will become too fat during the feeding period. These goats need
to be hand fed twice a day to control the amount of feed they consume.
Nutrients
There are five basic nutrients that are
required by all livestock. They are water, protein, energy, minerals, and
vitamins.
Water. Water is one of the most critical
nutrients in a feeding program as it regulates the amount of feed a goat will
consume. Clean, fresh water is necessary on a daily basis. Water is an
important component of the body as lean tissue consists of nearly 70% water and
all body fluids depend on water from the system. Reduced water intake can aid
feeders at certain periods during the program to reduce feed intake and reduce
the size of the rumen.
Protein. The primary constituent of the
animal body is protein. Dietary protein serves to maintain or replace protein
in body tissues, proves for carriers of other nutrients, and is a major
component of various products such as meat, milk, and fiber. Protein
requirements for goats varies according to their size, age, and maturity. You,
fast growing goats need higher protein diets (18 % - 22%) to allow them to grow
and develop their muscle potential. Rations which contain 16 - 18% protein are
useful during many phases of the club goat feeding program, but rations lower
than 16% tend to lead to fat deposition too quickly and should be avoided.
Feeders need to remember that goats have a daily requirement for protein. If
more protein is fed than the goat requires, the excess is used for energy.
Using protein as an energy source is very expensive, but much better than diets
that are deficient in protein.
During periods when total feed intake is greatly reduced, protein
supplementation with a high quality topdress may be necessary to provide the
adequate daily requirements for your goat.
Energy. The most common limiting nutrient
in goat rations is energy. Inadequate energy intake will result in a slowing of
growth and loss of weight. An adequate supply of energy is necessary for
efficient utilization of nutrients. Grain and protein supplements are high in
energy. However, in goat rations, too much energy intake can be just as
detrimental as not enough. Monitoring the body condition of your goat will
assure proper energy levels are being fed.
Minerals. The minerals of major concern in a
goat rations are salt, calcium, and phosphorous. Calcium and phosphorous are
necessary for proper growth and development. They are of concern if the ratio
or proportion of these two minerals in the ration become out of balance. The
ratio in the ration should be at least two parts calcium to one part
phosphorous. Rations which contain high levels of phosphorous in relation to
calcium may cause urinary calculi. The addition of ammonium chloride at the
rate of 10 - 15 pounds per ton of feed will help prevent urinary calculi.
Roughages are generally high in calcium and low in phosphorous. Grains are
generally low in calcium and intermediate in phosphorous. Most protein
supplements are high in phosphorous and intermediate in calcium. Check with
your feed dealer if you have questions about mineral levels in your feed.
Vitamins. Vitamins are essential for proper
body function and are required by goats in very small amounts. Of all vitamins,
only vitamin A is likely to ever be deficient. If goats are receiving a high
quality show ration, then most vitamin levels should not be a problem. It is a
good practice to supplement your goats with B complex from time to time to keep
them feeling and eating good.
HEALTH
A healthy goat is important to the success
of a club goat project. Sick goats are slow growing and never reach their
genetic potential. The key to a healthy goat is the development of a
preventative health program. Goats that are purchased for a club goat project
should have been on some type of health program and have had a variety of
vaccinations. These treatments
would include:
Enterotoxemia or Overeating Disease
A major cause of death in club goats is from
enterotoxemia or overeating disease. Enterotoxemia generally results in death
and seldom exhibits symptoms. This disease is caused by a clostridial organism
which is normally present in the intestine of most goats. Goats which have
their feeding schedule abruptly changed or consume large amounts of grain are
the most subject to enterotoxemia. There are two types of enterotoxemia--type C
and type D. Most often type D causes the disease. There are vaccines available
for type D and for combination of the type C and D. All club goats should be
vaccinated with the combination (C and D) vaccine. At least two booster
vaccinations are recommended following the first vaccination. The first
vaccination should be given immediately after purchase or just prior to
purchase by the breeder. A good vaccination program should eliminate losses
from overeating.
Internal Parasites
Internal parasites are a continuous problem
in club goats. Newly purchased goats should be drenched immediately for
internal parasites and a second drenching should follow about three weeks
later. There are not many drenches approved for internal parasites in goats.
Local veterinarians have the best information on what drench will be most
effective in your area. Internal parasites build up a resistance to a drench if
it is used over a long period of time. Rotating dewormers may be effective in
helping to eliminate internal parasite problems. Dry fed dewormers work best for follow-up every 30 days
after the first deworming.
Urinary Calculi
Urinary calculi is a metabolic disease of
male goats and is characterized by the formation of calculi (stones) within the
urinary tract. The first sign of calculi is the goats inability to pass urine
without great discomfort. The goat will exhibit signs of restlessness, kicking
at the belly, stretching and attempting to urinate. The most common cause for
calculi formation in wether goats is rations with high phosphorous levels.
Grains are high in phosphorous and low in calcium; therefore, high concentrate
rations, unless properly balanced, tend to cause urinary calculi. The most
successful form of prevention is to provide at least a 2:1 calcium to
phosphorous ratio in the total ration. As a preventative measure, adding 10 -
15 pounds of ammonium chloride per ton of feed is very successful Clean fresh
water will increase consumption and help prevent urinary calculi.
Soremouth
Soremouth is a contagious disease which
causes the formation of scabs on the lips and around the mouth of the goat.
This is a virus that can affect humans, so care should be exercised when
handling goats with soremouth. Iodine can be rubbed into lesions aft the scabs
are removed and this will help to dry up the area and reduce the
infection. There is a vaccine which
contains many strains of the organism and will help to prevent goats from
having soremouth. As this is a live virus vaccine, extreme caution should be
taken when administering the product.
Ringworms
Ringworms have become a serious problem in the club lamb industry. Since most of the club goats are shown in the same barns and show rings, it is highly likely that ringworm will become a problem. Ringworms are very contagious and can be transmitted from goat to goat to human to goat, or from contaminated equipment to goat. Since ringworms are generally brought back from a show, a good preventative program is a must. The following products have been used with variable results:
|
Fulvicin powder given as a bolus or used as a top
dress. |
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Sannox II 10% solution used to spray goats,
equipment, and premises |
|
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Captan 3 teaspoons/gallon of water, used to
spray goats, equipment, and premises |
|
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Novasan 3 ounces/gallon of water, used to spray
goats, equipment, and premises |
|
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Chlorox 10% solution used to spray goats,
equipment, and premises |
Pinkeye
Pinkeye is a contagious disease that is
characterized by excessive watering and a clouding over of the pupil. Goats are
very susceptible to pinkeye, especially after they have been transported and
moved to a new location. Dry, dusty pens and constant exposure to sunlight can
be contributing factors. There are several medications on the market for
pinkeye. If improvement is not seen within a few days after treatment, contact
your local veterinarian.
Hoof Trimming
When goats stay in small pens with no rocks
their hooves grow long and need to be trimmed. Hooves should be trimmed about
every six weeks. Always trim hooves one or two weeks before a show in case you
accidentally cut into the quick and temporarily lame the goat. This will allow
the goat time to get well before the show. If foot rot becomes a problem, it
can be treated by placing your goats foot in a zinc sulfate foot bath (10%
solution).
Dehorning or Tipping
Some shows demand that your club goat be
dehorned in order to be eligible to show. If you plan to dehorn it is preferred
to "disbud" goats at 10 - 14 days of age. The older the goat is and
the larger the horn, the more stressful it will be on you goat. Other shows
simply imply that the goats horns be tipped in order to be eligible to show.
This can be easily done and without causing much stress to your goat. However,
do not wait until the week before the show to tip your goats horns. The horns
should be tipped 4 - 6 weeks prior to the show to allow the horns to heal
properly. The main reason these rules are in place is for the safety of the
exhibitor.
MANAGEMENT
AND FEEDING
In feeding goats you have a choice of
feeding a specifically prepared ration (Champion Goat Pellet), mixing your own,
or feeding a ration that has been mixed by the local feed store. Since goats
are picky eaters a pelleted ration may be preferred over a textured or loose
ration. The most important thing to remember is that there is no such thing as
a "magic" ration. Find a balanced ration, learn how to feed it, and learn
how your goats respond to it.
When goats are purchased it is essential
that they be treated for internal parasites and overeating disease. Many goats
will not know how to eat the feed you have purchased. These goats should be
started on good, leafy alfalfa hay that is top dressed with the purchased feed.
After 3 or 4 days you can slowly change these goats to the ration that you have
chosen to feed in your program by decreasing the hay. Hay can be fed during the
first part of the feeding program, but should be eliminated at the later stages
to prevent goats from getting a large stomach.
Most club goats can be self fed for the
entire feeding period. However, some goats will become fat and need to be hand
fed. Fat deposition must be closely monitored throughout the feeding program.
The feeding schedule can be adjusted to modify gain and body composition, but
the feeder must continually watch the goats and check their progress so changes
can be made. Rations which are not producing enough finish, or goats that are
not putting on enough finish, can be bolstered by the addition of high energy
feed, such as corn, during the late stages of the feeding program. Remember,
never make abrupt changes in your feeding program. Gradual changes are more
desirable so that your goat will stay on feed and continue to develop.
The feeding program for your club goats will
dictate how they develop and mature. A feeding program cannot make up for a
lack of superior genetics, but will allow your goats to reach their genetic
potential. Feeding is a daily responsibility and one which can be continually
changed to maximize your results. To best monitor your results, goats should be
weighed on a regular basis. Know whether your goats are gaining or losing and
how much.
Exercising your goats can be very beneficial
to your success in the show ring. Goats are very active animals; and, if given
enough room, will exercise themselves. Having objects in your pen for your
goats to jump and play on (i.e. big rocks, wooden spools, etc.) will provide
your goat with an excellent opportunity to exercise themselves. Goats that have
been exercised will handle harder and firmer, which will give you an advantage
in the show ring since most judges do not want the exhibitors to brace their
goats.
FITTING
Many major shows have a shearing rule for
club goats. However, there are some differences in the hair length that is
allowable at the time of show. Therefore, it is very important to read the show
rules prior to clipping your goat for a particular show.
Washing your goat is not always necessary,
but it can be beneficial. If washing is done, use a mild soap sparingly, rinse
the animal thoroughly, and dry the goat completely. Brushing with a stiff brush
on a regular basis is usually all that is needed on clean goats. The brushing
action removes all of the dead hair and dirt on the goat.
Once the goat is clean it is time to shear
your goat. Shearing must be done to match show rules, and should be done a week
to ten days prior to the show to allow clipper tracks to even out and the pink
skin to become less apparent. A pair of electric clippers equipped with either
a 20 or 23 tooth comb and 4 point cutter should be used. There are many different
combs and cutters available; however, it is felt that the equipment mentioned
in this guide provides a smother more attractive goat. While shearing, the
clippers should run parallel to the length of the body rather than making
vertical motions. Hair below the knees and hocks should not be shorn, and the
hair on the end of the tail should be bobbed. Small animal clippers may be
needed to clip closely around the eyes, ears, pasterns, or delicate areas on
the goat.
If you are shearing in the colder winter
months, you should cover you goat with a lamb sock or blanket immediately after
shearing. A clean, well-bedded pen should be provided for the goat to keep him
clean and dry.
SHOWING
Like any other
activity, some people are natural showmen. All exhibitors can learn techniques
and improve their showmanship skills. Showmanship can be broken down into two
parts: pre-show preparation and show ring.
Pre-Show
Preparation
The amount of time
required to train a goat to show depends on several things: the goat, physical
size and experience, and the intensity of training. Some goats are easy to
gentle and learn how to show, while other goats are more difficult and nearly
impossible to train. However, most goats can be trained provided enough time
and effort is spent. Unlike lambs, goats are shown with a halter or some type
of collar. It is the authors opinions that a collar works best.
Halter breaking is
an excellent way to start the gentling process, especially if an exhibitor has
several goats. Collars or inexpensive rope halters can be made or purchased
from certain feed and livestock supply stores. Goats should be caught, haltered
or collared and tied to the fence. If using a collar, you can snap the goat's
collar to the fence. Care should be taken not to tie them where they can hurt
themselves. It is very important that tied goats not be left
unattended. After the goat begins to gentle down, the exhibitor can
start teaching him to lead. Use the collar or halter to keep the goats head up
while you teach him to lead. It is important that you have someone to assist
you by pushing the goat from behind whenever he stops. Teach the goat to lead
with its front shoulder even with your leg. The goats head should be out in
front of your body.
The next step in
the training process is for the exhibitor to lead the goat and properly set him
up. Set the front legs up first, then place the hind legs, keeping the body and
neck straight and the head in a high, proud position by using the halter or
collar. The exhibitor should remain standing at all times. Do not squat or
kneel.
After the training
is complete, the exhibitor may wish to practice showing his or her goat. The
exhibitor can set up his or her goat and show him while someone else handles
the goat, making sure the goat looks good. If the goat responds properly,
return him to the pen and do not overwork him. Exhibitors need to realize that
they may have only 15-20 seconds to actually show their goat in a show. If the
goat does not show properly when the judge handles him, you may get overlooked.
Show
Ring
Assuming that prior
planning, selecting, feeding, fitting, training, and grooming have been done,
showing is one of the most important ingredients. Showmanship can't be
emphasized too strongly! It is often the difference between winning and losing.
The exhibitor
should be mentally and physically ready to enter the show ring for competition.
By completing the pre-show activities exhibitors should have confidence that
they can do an effective job showing their goat. They should be neat in
appearance but not overdressed. Exhibitors should not wear hats or caps in the
show ring.
Before the show
begins, exhibitors should go look at the show ring and become familiar with it.
Once the judge begins, if the exhibitor is not in the first class, he or she
should watch the judge and see how he works the goats in the show ring.
When the
appropriate class is called, exhibitors should take their goats to the show
ring. They should be courteous to fellow exhibitors at all times. If the ring
stewards do not line up the goats, the exhibitors should find a good place
where their goats will look their best. Avoid corners of the ring and
leave plenty of space between your goat and others. Set your goat up,
making sure the legs are set properly and keep the body, neck and head in a
straight line, with the goat's head up with alert. Always show with both hands.
Do not put your free hand behind your back, use your free hand to keep the
goat's head and body straight.
A good showmen must
be alert and know where the judge is at all times. Always remember to
keep your eye on the judge! Remain calm and concentrate on showing. In
large classes it may be 10 minutes or longer before the judge handles your goat
so you must be patient and let your goat relax.
Set you goat up and
be ready before the judge gets to you. Be careful not to cover your goat up
with your body and block the judges view. Always keep your goat between
you and the judge.
After the judge
handles your goat, he will usually step back and look at him. Be sure to keep
his head up and body, neck, and head in a straight line. Keep one eye on the
judge and one eye on the goat. It is your responsibility to watch the judge and
not miss a decision.
If your goat does
not get pulled for class placing the first time, don't give up. Continue to
keep him set up, remain alert, and keep one eye on the judge. If your goat gets
pulled, circle him out of the line and follow the directions of the ring
steward, making sure to continue to keep an eye on the judge. Move your goat
with style and at a steady, moderate pace.
Remember to keep
showing at all times. The class is not over until the ribbons are passed
out. Always be a good sport and
shake the hand of the class winner. Hopefully it will be you. Be a humble
winner and a graceful loser.
Thanks to excerpts from Texas Club Goat Association for help with these guidelines and recommendations.